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Britská Kolumbie a Alberta,  Kanada,  Okruh Kanada a USA

Jasper a Banff National Park

Do Jasperu přijíždíme před půlnocí místního času. V Albertě se posouvá čas o hodinu dopředu. Oba kempy, které jsme měli naplánované jsou zavřené. Ups. Jsme v Jasperu o 3 dny dříve, než jsme plánovali (kvůli špatnému počasí jsme vynechali výlet na sever) a sezóna ještě ani nezačala. Jediná dobrá zpráva je, že kempy otevírají zítra. Na černo tedy vjíždíme do jedno z vytipovaných kempů a stavíme za světla čelovky stany. K večeři dáváme čínské polévky a jdeme spát.

Další den ale potkáváme místního Rangera, se kterým se domlouváme na přespání 🙂

 

V Jasper a Banf NP se dá strávit mnoho týdnů chozením. V našem případě jsme měli lehce smůlu, protože jsme dorazili na přelomu jara a léta, takže všude se stále válelo celkem dost sněhu. I tak jsem ale zvládli následující výlety:

Jezera v Jasper National Park
U Maligne Lake plánujeme dva traily (Moose lake loop a Mary Schäffer loop). Jdeme kolem jezera s krásnou vyhlídkou na zamrzlé jezero a hory, které se tyčí nad jezerem. U jezera na molu si dáváme nakonec i oběd. Pak se vydáváme na trail na druhé straně jezera, abychom si ho prohlédli že všech stran. Cestou zpátky se stavujeme ještě u Medicine lake a zvládáme i známé Pyramid lake a Patricia lake. Pyramid lake je nádherné. Z části zamrzlé a nad jezerem se tyčí hory, které se odráží na jezeře.

 

Kinley lake pod Mount Robson
Původní 2 denní výlet k Berg lake, na základě informací od místního rangera, zkracujeme pouze na jeden den. V údolí padají laviny a cesta je plná sněhu. Plánujeme tedy jít jen ke Kinley lake a pokud podmínky budou přát, zkusíme si projít Valley of thousands falls.

Kinley lake je nádherně tyrkysové a odrážejí se v něm okolní horym nádhera. Podmínky zatím přejí, tak obcházíme jezero. Cestou pozorujeme několik lavin, které ale naštěstí padají do vedlejších údolí. Zastavujeme u prvního campgroundu na druhé straně jezera a kocháme se okolní krásou.

Pak pokračujeme dál do údolí tisíců vodopádů. Sice jich tisíc není, ale hodně jich je. První část vede údolím, cesta se potom začíná zvedat a my se dostáváme na úroveň vodopádů a na jeden koukáme dokonce i ze shora. Počasí nám přeje. Svítí nádherně sluníčko a je teplo. Docházíme až na úroveň posledního vodopádu. K Berg lake nám zbývají ještě 3 km, to už ale vzdáváme, protože sníh je hodně hluboký a máme 4h odpoledne, což byl hraniční čas, abychom se vrátili za světla.

Nakonec máme v nohách necelých 32 km a jsme uťapaní. Do campu přijíždíme až za tmy. Dáváme si večeři, sprchu a jdeme spát. Výlet ale za to stál.

 

Hot springs
No náročné tůře pod Mount Robson jsme si dopřáli jeden den odpočinku v Hot springs u Sulphur Skyline trail.

Přicházíme k lázním, balíme věci a vyrážíme na trail. Nakonec ale končíme po 300 m, protože je na cestě (kupodivu) hodně sněhu, kterým se nechceme brodit a sněžnice si přeci nebudeme půjčovat 🙂

Otáčíme to, na parkovišti si dáváme svačinu, a míříme rovnou do Hot Springs. Jsou zde celkem 4 bazénky. Voda v jednom z nich má 14 stupňů, ve druhém 26 a v posledních dvou kolem 40. Užíváme si teplou vodu, dáváme si oběd v podobě super salátů, sledujeme medvěda, který ožírá pupeny v koruně stromu 100 metrů od nás a sluníme se.

 

Povedený den, aneb stane se i v lepších rodinách – přejezd z Jasper do Banff National Park

Počasí v Jasper nám moc nepřeje. Anebo přeje? Tři dny poté, co jsme přijeli do parku byla příjezdová cesta zasypána sesuvem půdy. Veškerá doprava do a z parku na západ byla dočasně pozastavena. Na hlavní křižovatce v národním parku se hromadí náklaďáky a auta, jejichž řidiči doufají, že cesta bude brzy otevřena.

Do parku jsme se tedy dostali a během dvou dnů stihli nějaké traily, co jsme plánovali. Jak se ale dostat z parku? Původní plán byl projet Jasperem na jih přímo do Banff national park. Jenomže včera na této cestě spadla přes silnici lavina, takže je cesta na dva dny uzavřená. Volíme tedy 400 km objížďku. Na přímo by cesta byla dlouhá 77 km. Na konci dne jsme se dozvěděli, že během dne přímou cestu mezi parky zprovoznili – no jo smůla…

Cesta probíhala hladce. Cestou v Jasper national park zastavujeme na pár vyhlídkách: Athabasca Falls, Sunwapta Falls, a nakonec ještě na Columbia Icefield, kde se ocitáme uprostřed nádherného údolí, kolem kterého se tyčí zasněžené vrcholky hor a ledovce plazící se údolími.

Tím, že jsme celé pohoří odjížděli přes Red Deer a Calgary, tak jsme měli nádherný výhled na celé pohoří Jasper a Banff national park z dálky. Kolem nás byly rozsáhlé pastviny, za nimi se tyčily obrovské zasněžené vrcholky hor. Prostě nádhera.

Dojeli jsme do našeho kempu, jehož dostupnost jsme checkovali 14 dní před odjezdem. Mezitím nám ale poupravili otevíračku kempu, takže kemp je stále zavřený. Nakonec se tedy vracíme 40 minut zpátky do jiného kempu ve městě Banff, který je otevřený. Aneb, kdo nemá v hlavě, má v nohách. V našem případě v peněžence za proježděný benzín.

 

Město Banff

První den se ve visitor centru dovídáme, že je vše na píp 🙂 Všude sníh, laviny a do toho všeho prší. No co. Program máme celkem jasný. Obejdeme muzea, co jsou ve městě Banff zdarma a pak se uvidí. Realita nakonec dopadla lépe, než plán. Vyrážíme nejdříve do Cave & Basin National Historic Site, kde byly na začátku 20. století vybudované lázně. Procházíme louku, na které vyvěrá pár pramenů. No, žádný Yellowstone to není, ale vůní to vydá za slušné baheniště. Zároveň byl v této oblasti po první světové válce vybudován pracovní tábor pro zajatce, což jsme vůbec netušili.

Jako další muzeum nás čekalo Parks Museum, ve kterém mají být vycpaná zvířata, která pobíhají po parku. Vidíme, Elky, Carribou, deery (mezi kterými máme doteď bordel), horské kozy a ovce, které vypadají jak kozy, medvědy (kdy jsme zjistili, že ten roztomilý méďa, který se procházel metr od našeho auta byl vlastně po ránu hladový Grizzly), buffalo, ondatry, vydry, sviště, bobry a v neposlední řadě miliony ptáčků a motýlů. Některé exponáty jsou staré přes 100 let. No prostě pecka, tuto zastávku hodnotím pěti hvězdičkami.

Poslední budovou, do které jsme vlezli byl Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, který místní přesdívají Castle. Je to obrovský hotelový komplex, kde jsou veřejnosti přístupná první dvě patra. V zablácených botách, teplácích a zimní bundě suverénně vyjíždíme do posledního patra, abychom viděli výhled do okolí. Nakonec se zastavujeme v Lobby, kde jsou volně přístupné dva kulečníkové stoly a dáváme si pár her. Co jiného dělat, když je venku ošklivě a všechna volně dostupná muzea už jsme prošli? Hned za hotelem jsou Bow falls. Malé vodopády v centru města dostupné do pěti minut od auta.

Jako poslední jedeme k proslulému lake Minnewanka, které je stále zamrzlé. Led má místy před 15 cm, zkouším jeho pevnost a skáču na něm … Drží … Pak jde na řadu kamarád Lukáš. Ten si ale troufá dál od kraje. Při cestě zpátky se ale propadá po kolena a zkouší teplotu vody (prý nic moc).

 

Spojnice mezi Jasper a Banff national park

Protože už jsme se poučili z předchozích nezdarů, půjčujeme si sněžnice. Začínáme krátkou hodinovou procházkou na snežnicích nad Peyto lake, kde vidíme nádherné hory kolem nás a zamrzlé jezero pod námi. To je jeden z nejlepších pohledů, co se nám tu v Kanadě zatím naskytl. Cestou míjíme ještě Bow Glacier, ale po tom, co už jsme viděli na Columbia Icefield je to takový průměr.

Pak už míříme do Yoho national park, kde máme doporučený trail na snežnicích k Wapta falls. Sněžnice nakonec nepotřebujeme, cesta je krásně průchozí a vodopády jsou super. Cestou z vodopádu stíháme zastávku u nejznámějšího jezera Emerald lake, které si obcházíme. Nakonec ještě stíháme Lake Louis.

 

Sulphur Mountain
Sulphur mountain, se tyčí nad městem Banff a vede na něj lanovka. Cesta na vrchol má ale jen 6 km, tak jsme se rozhodli, že si na vrchol vyšlápneme. Během naší cesty jsme nastoupali 700 výškových metrů, ale stálo to za to. Ze shora je skvělý výhled na všechny strany, dolů už jedeme gondolou, která je už zdarma.


Tipy:

  • Na Sulphur Mountain vede lanovka, která je placená, cestu dolu jsme měli ale zdarma. Zjistěte si tuto informaci u obsluhy, ušetří Vám hodně sil…

 

Pár odkazů:

  • Banff Gondola: https://www.banff.com/banff-tours/banff-gondola/banff-gondola-rates/

 

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